21 September 2005 – Bangkok & Vientiane

The morning started very early – 05:00 – with a 6AM drive to the airport. The service and overall comfort at the Peninsula far exceed what I experienced at the Oriental Hotel. In addition, it was cheaper!

The flight was uneventful to Vientiane. There were three American guys in business class that were either marine guards or former military personnel working at the US Embassy (AKA CIA). They behaved but stuck out like a sore thumb.

The Settha Palace Hotel is a delightful and exceeded my expectations. It is small, perhaps only 30 rooms or so, and exquisitely restored. My room is not huge but well laid out and spotless. Everything, including the moldings, appears to be teak and hand made and hand finished. The bed is comfortable and I nap the afternoon away. It was raining and not a good time to explore. Around 3 PM I venture out as the rain has stopped and the sun is shining.

Vientiane is a small and easy to navigate city. I stroll along the Mekong river. There are many shops and cafes on the two avenues that parallel the river the lanes that join the avenunes. The city appears much more tourist-friendly than Phnom Penh – still lots of dirt but very little garbage, police are everywhere, and there is very little traffic. I do miss the Phnom Penh moto-taxis though!

I am surprised that the riverside is so sparsely developed. Perhaps it floods often (and my mind turns to New Orleans). Still, it is very nice. I stop by a rooftop put for a beer and take panoramic shots of the Mekong River. I walk poas the Presidential Residence and stroll through wats and temple grounds. The sun is setting and the light is perfect for photography.

I returned to the hotel after sunset, got cleaned up, and visited the hotel bar. On the way to the hotel I surveyed the cafes and didn’t see anything that was better than what the hotel had to offer. After last nights late night, the early trip to the airport, and the very long walk to day, I am exhausted. Anyway, I want to get up early tomorrow and monk-watch.

The bartender’s name is “Wat” and he is a very friendly and helpful young man. At one point “American Pie” is playing and he made a remark about Madonna being the original singer of the song. I feel so old.

I ordered Lao food; spring rolls and chicken with cashew nuts. The seasoning is much lighter than Thai Cuisiine but the general recipese seem to be the same. The food is expertly prepared and presented.

Young Mr. Wat helps me plan out my morning of monk-watching before my 1/2-day city tour the hotel has arranged. Between monk-watching and the tour I hope to grab a shower and some breakfast. After the tour will be a noontime nap (this is a vacation after all). In the afternoon I hope to do a little shopping and photograph the sunset over the Mekong.

I am exhausted!